Day 11, 12, 13: Lafayette LA to New Orleans LA
I left Lafayette during rush hour, but it didn’t feel like it because the traffic was light. Despite this, the ride wasn’t particularly engaging or enjoyable. I am not really sure if this was because of the landscape, which – aside from a few small cities with gorgeous trees – was flat and plain, or because I knew it was the last leg of this road trip through the musical heart of America: 1,692 miles, 11 days, 8 live music shows and lots of food after leaving Chicago, I returned the car in New Orleans.
Right after settling into the guest house and while waiting for the only concert I had pre-booked, I embraced the Brit in me, entering a 3pm-still-empty pub – true to the saying, “it’s 5 o’clock somewhere” – to down a celebratory cold one. A pianist was working his magic despite the absence of an audience – almost poetic.
From there, it was a night of jazz, crawling from one music bar to another, from traditional to modern styles, indoors and right on the street, making sure to avoid the trashy part of Bourbon Street because, like in Nashville, I just can’t.
The two days since returning the car mirrored each other: late mornings, long walks, getting lost among beautiful houses and majestic trees, dazed and confused partly ‘cause of the overwhelming scents of confederate jasmine and newly blooming magnolia trees, partly ‘cause of the already dense, muggy, and sticky air, mostly ‘cause of the minor hangovers following the late nights’ jazz bar shenanigans.
Then, as nighttime kicked off, it was the jazz all over again.
Adding 8 more live shows to bring the grand total of music seen in the last two weeks to 16. And adding all the Cajun food I could possibly fit in my stomach to bring the grand total of weight I’ve gained since Chicago to I-don’t-wanna-know pounds.
Give me live music, new cuisines, serendipitous encounters, and travel, and you can be sure that you’ll see the happiest version of me..
Once again: greens and vegetables for the next two weeks.
Driving from Lafayette to New Orleans Cheat Sheet
Accommodation in New Orleans
- Rathbone Mansions, 1244 Esplanade Ave, New Orleans, LA 70116. The rooms are beautiful, and the location is perfect—walking distance to everything (restaurants, bars, music venues), but quiet enough to rest. Checking in and out is seamless. I would totally stay here again.
- Selina Catahoula New Orleans, 914 Union St, New Orleans, LA 70112, I moved here on the last night to save some bucks (the upcoming Jazz festival meant all prices went up), and it was a pleasant stay.
Where to eat and what to see in New Orleans LA
- Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub, 733 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70116. a great jazz bar open night and day. I recommend going in the afternoon when it is less crowded (if not even empty), but be sure: there is always a fantastic musician playing..
- Preservation Hall, 726 St Peter, New Orleans, LA 70116, It’s the only place I book in advance. Honestly, it was my least pleasant live music experience in Nola. It’s very touristy, and you can’t really see much unless you are in the premium (expensive) seats. You can’t take pics or have a drink, and the fans rolling were very noisy, disrupting the experience. The show was really short. In my opinion, for a more authentic experience, it’s better to stick to the real jazz bars.
- The Spotted Cat Music Club, 623 Frenchmen St, New Orleans, LA 70117, Talking about a real experience, this was by far my favorite jazz venue in Nola. Great artists, packed with locals, reasonably priced drinks, open till very late. You can even stay in the little patio outside, sipping a drink while listening to the music coming from inside and watching Nola pass by.
- Apple Barrel Bar, 609 Frenchmen St, New Orleans, LA 70116, I bumped into this place on my way back to the guest house. Experimental jazz and rock, good drinks, great vibes.
- Maison Bourbon, 641 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70130 Another jazz bar with all the pros and cons of being on Bourbon Street.
- Dooky Chase Restaurant, 2301 Orleans Ave, New Orleans, LA 70119, one of the best meals I’ve had in a while. Great southern food in a legendary Creole premises. Unmissable.
- Cochon Butcher, 930 Tchoupitoulas St, New Orleans, LA 70130, A great quality sandwich shop with Cajun options.
- 21st Amendment Bar at La Louisiane, 725 Iberville St, New Orleans, LA 70130, Great cocktails and great live music daily.
- Bourbon Heat, 711 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70116, A nice beer garden with electric live music during the day. It might get a bit trashy, like the whole Bourbon Street at night.
- Cafe Du Monde, 56 Dreyfous Dr, New Orleans, LA 70124, Their specialty is beignets – square pieces of dough, fried, and covered with powdered sugar
- Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, 941 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70116, One of the oldest bars in New Orleans. Now a dive.
- Muriel’s Jackson Square, 801 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70116, Classic Creole fare in a 19th-century building
- Café Fleur de Lis, 301 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70130, Very nice breakfast. Recommended: egg Benedict with oyster on top.
- Dat Dog, 601 Frenchmen St, New Orleans, LA 70116, A late hot dog after a long night of jazz and bourbon? Yes, please
- Skeeta Hawk Brewing, 455 N Dorgenois St, New Orleans, LA 70119, Far away from the madness of Bourbon Street, a nice place to relax, downing a couple of good Louisiana pints
- Mother’s Restaurant, 401 Poydras St, New Orleans, LA 70130, A New Orleans Tradition serving Southern fare since 1938
- Garden District a great place to get lost while walking around beautiful houses and trees
- Historic Oak Grove, City Park Ave, New Orleans, LA 70119, home to some of the oldest oak trees in the world.
Driving from Lafayette to New Orleans FAQ
The shortest route is 135 miles. However, I drove for 155 miles, attempting to avoid the highway as much as possible.
Driving on the fastest route will take around 2 hours.
I didn’t find the drive from Lafayette to New Orleans particularly engaging or enjoyable. There are a few majestic trees, but nothing more. Obviously, everything changes once you are in New Orleans.
There isn’t much to see (at least that I am aware of) between Lafayette and New Orleans. Once in New Orleans, you have plenty to choose from.
Any car would do it. The roads were clean and safe.
More pictures and videos taken from Lafayette and New Orleans
My two weeks itinerary on a Chicago to New Orleans road trip
- Chicago to New Orleans – main article
- Day 1: Chicago to Indianapolis
- Day 2: Indianapolis to Louisville
- Day 3-4: Louisville to Nashville
- Day 5-6: Nashville to Memphis
- Day 7: Memphis to Clarksdale
- Day 8: Clarksdale to Greenville
- Day 9: Greenville to Natchez
- Day 10: Natchez to Lafayette
- Day 11, 12, 13: Lafayette to New Orleans
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